beauty dictionary

What is it: A synthetic preservative and moisture-binding humectant (i.e. used to boost moisture in the skin).

Hazard level: Low. Can potentially trigger dermatitis in high amounts but in cosmetics, only the lowest concentrations are generally required.

What is it: A synthetic skin conditioning occlusive (i.e. helps to seal moisture in). It can also be found in natural substances, such as Royal Jelly.

Hazard level: Low. It’s generally considered to be a good ingredient for dry skincare.

What is it: An extract from the bark of Acacia Trees. Commonly used as a natural polymer in skincare i.e. a thickening/binding agent to bring all the ingredients together. Also considered to have anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.

Hazard level: Low.

What is it: Used as a solvent (e.g. to dissolve/dilute a formula into a thinner consistency). Commonly found in nail polish.

Hazard level: High. While it’s okay for the occasional wear on your nails, it’s not something we like to see in skincare (especially near the top or middle of the ingredients list), as it can irritate and act as a trigger for dermatitis.

What is it: A type of vegetable oil, used as a staple in beauty and traditional medicine across various cultures. It’s typically used as an emollient in skincare (i.e. moisturizing ingredient).

Hazard level: Low.

What is it: This is an isolated extract of cottonseed oil. It’s used as an emollient (moisturizing ingredient) or as a thickening agent in skincare.

Hazard level: Low.

What is it: An emollient derive from lanolin, which is the fat from sheep wool.

Hazard level: Low. Lanolin has been used as a moisturizer for millennia – but of course, avoid this ingredient if you have a wool allergy.

What is it: An extract from Kiwi fruits. It’s packed with a lot of plant-powered goodies for your skin, including antioxidants and vitamin C.

Hazard level: Low.

What is it: This has been a buzz ingredient in recent years, found in everything from face masks to toothpaste. It’s basically fine black dust from things such as bone char, coconut shells, peat, coal or sawdust, and then heated at very high temperatures to ‘activate it’. Activating it allows the charcoal to then better attract baddies like toxins, thereby trapping them.

Hazard level: Low. It’s not considered harmful and bad reactions are rare. While it’s clinically proven to have a variety of applications in healthcare, there has yet to be extensive research conducted on its use in skincare

What is it: An extract from the Baobab tree. Baobab fruit is high in vitamins and antioxidants, including vitamin C. Because it also contains essential fatty acids, it’s used in skincare as an emollient. Research suggests it can help repair a damaged skin barrier.

Hazard level: Low.

What is it: One of the building blocks of DNA and RNA. It’s naturally present in our bodies, but for the purpose of skincare, it’s derived from yeast. Adenosine is popular for its anti-ageing, soothing and healing abilities. Research also suggests that it stimulates collagen production.

Hazard level: Low. It doesn’t irritate the skin.

What is it: You might have sweetened your coffee with it but for the purposes of skincare, it has a variety of uses including as an emulsifier, thickening or binding agent. This jelly-like substance derived from red algae. It’s also said to be a source of antioxidants and improve moisture retention.

Hazard level: Low.

What is it: Algae refers to a group of marine plants, so the extract may come from seaweed or something else. It’s typically used in skincare as an emollient (i.e. hydrating ingredient) or as a skin conditioning agent. Algae is also said to be high in antioxidants and has the potential to help collagen production. For these reasons, you’ll usually find it in anti-ageing formulations.

Hazard level: Low.

What is it: A wonderful plant extract that offers a variety of benefits, including better moisture retention, improved collagen production, mild exfoliation and skin-soothing abilities.

Hazard level: Low.

What is it: This succulent plant has been long used in skincare, from treating sunburns and rashes to moisturizing dry skin.

Hazard level: Low. Two years, the liquid sap of the aloe leaf was classified by the International Agency for Research on Cancer as a possible human carcinogen (Group 2B) when ingested. There has been no research since to support that initial finding (which was discovered in rats). In any case, this is relevant to the consumption of aloe, rather than its topical application in skincare.

What is it: Chemical compounds usually derived from fruits. AHAs are typically used in skincare to exfoliate. They work by peeling away surface skin, revealing newer, brighter and more evenly pigmented skin.

Hazard level: Low. The hazard with AHAs isn’t the ingredient itself but its usage. Frequent use in high concentrations isn’t advised, as it is a powerful peeling agent. Keep this in mind especially if you have sensitive or dark skin (as overuse of high percentage AHA products can trigger hyperpigmentation).

What is it: An antioxidant that’s both water and oil soluble. In skincare, it can slow down the breakdown of collagen, as well as mildly exfoliate and soothe irritated skin.

Hazard level: Low. Just be aware it is quite potent, and concentrations above 5% can cause a stinging or burning sensation in the skin. Use it only in low doses and keep any serums containing this ingredient away from the sunlight (as it can make it go bad, similar to vitamin C).

What is it: A synthetic ingredient in the alcohol category used to adjust the pH of a product.

Hazard level: Low. It’s generally only used in low concentrations and is thought to be safe and non-irritating.

What is it: An umbrella term used to refer to the building blocks of protein. They naturally occur in our body and our vital to our body’s function and good health. In terms of skincare, amino acids help to keep our skin sufficiently hydrated, provide antioxidant protection and regenerate collagen. Basically, amino acids are superstars.

Hazard level: Low. Amino acids aren’t known to cause any skin irritation.

What is it: A group of high-performing antioxidants. Interestingly, they are also brightly pigmented (they are what make blueberries blue)!

Hazard level: Low.

What is it: Our skin is exposed to various environmental aggressors daily – including pollution, smoke, UV rays etc. These free radicals damage the DNA of our skin cells, causing our collagen to degenerate. Antioxidants are basically a group of superhero compounds that repair and protect your skin from the elements.

Hazard level: Low.

What is it: A natural extract from the bearberry plant that suppresses melanin. Similar to vitamin C, it Is an excellent treatment for hyperpigmentation and old scars.

Hazard level: Low (if it’s alpha arbutin we’re talking about). The best arbutin is alpha arbutin (vs beta arbutin). The former is stronger (up to 10x) and is much more stable. We’d avoid beta arbutin.

What is it: A rich plant oil produced from the kernels of the Moroccan argan tree. It’s packed with fatty acids, antioxidants and minerals, and is an excellent humectant for both the skin and hair.

Hazard level: Low.

What is it: A patented synthetic peptide made in Spain whose anti-ageing prowess is so effective, it’s considered to be the best natural alternative to Botox! Essentially, it promotes collagen production and helps restrict muscle movement that can lead to the formation of wrinkles.  

Hazard level: Low.

What is it: An amino acid which protects the skin and assists in the rebuild of collagen.

Hazard level: Low.

What is it: A plant extract from the sunflower family that carries strong antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties. It’s often used in topical ointments after operations or cosmetic treatments to lessen bruising. It can also be taken orally.

Hazard level: Medium. Skincare and homeopathic products generally contain very low concentrations of arnica and are considered safe. However, taken orally in large amounts can cause irritation, nausea and other symptoms.

What is it: Also known as L-Ascorbic Acid, it’s a form of vitamin C that’s most commonly used in skincare. It brightens the skin, evens out tone and can also fade fine lines. Other forms of vitamin C tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate.

Hazard level: Low. Note however, that high concentrations (above 10-15%) may cause irritation or redness on sensitive skin.

What is it: An antioxidant that’s from the carotenoid family (the same that lends foods like carrot and salmon their orange colour). It’s probably the most powerful carotenoid, and offers a variety of benefits. These include preventing dryness and protecting the skin from free radicals and sun damage.

Hazard level: Low.

What is it: Good, old fashioned oats. An excellent ingredient for repairing a compromised skin barrier, skin sensitivity and redness.

Hazard level: Low.

What is it: A chemical UV filter that protects from UVA rays.

Hazard level: Medium. Avobenzone isn’t that harmful in and of itself, so don’t stress if you see it in your favourite sunscreen formula. Just be aware however, that it takes just 30 minutes of sun exposure for it to breakdown and offer virtually zero protection from UVA(cancer causing) rays. Offset this by reapplying frequently. In addition, some companies add oxybenzone to prolong the protective benefits of avobenzone – which is a known endocrine disruptor that also releases free radicals.

What is it: A dicarboxylic acid (read: gentle exfoliator) derived from yeast or synthetically produced. It significantly diminishes the appearance blemishes and evens out skin tone.

Hazard level: Low.

What is it: An extract of blue tansy. While it’s mainly used as a coloring agent, it’s also said to carry antioxidant properties, soothing dry and itchy skin.

Hazard level: Low.

What is it: This Amazonian berry is makes for both a nutritious smoothie and a great skincare ingredient. It is a strong source of antioxidants, including the popular ferulic acid.

Hazard level: Low.

What is it: A group of chemical exfoliants, one of the most common being salicylic acid. While AHAs dissolve dead skin on the surface, BHAs work both on the skin’s surface and deeper in the pores. this makes them great for acne, congestion and blackheads. BHAs are also oil soluble, which means they can work even on oily skin types and dissolve plugs of sebum.

Hazard Level: Medium. As with AHAs, the key to safely using BHAs is the frequency and the % concentration. If you have sensitive skin, or are pregnant, stick to concentrations of 2% or less, and use infrequently.

What is it: EGF stands for epidermal growth factors. These are a type of protein that can be found in our bodies, which basically act as cell communicators to promote growth, wound healing and collagen production. Barley EGF meanwhile, is a similar type of protein taken from Barley stem cells. These are used in skincare because they reportedly have a similar structure to human EGF, and can bind with EGF receptors on human cells. Nifty eh?

Hazard Level: Low - although this is still a relatively new area of research.

What is it: A fine powder that forms when volcanic ash ages. Mineral-rich, anti-bacterial and absorbent, it's used as a clay to purify and detoxify the skin.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A strong anti-acne treatment. It is a chemical compound that releases oxygen on the skin to destroy pimple-causing bacteria.

Hazard Level: Medium. It's generally safe to use and is highly effective - however, prolonged or over-use can dry out and sensitize your skin, causing irritation and redness.

What is it: A type of antioxidant essential to cell growth, that lends carrots their orange colour! The body can convert beta carotene to Vitamin A.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Polysaccharide sugar molecules found in the cell walls of bacteria, fungi, yeast, algae and grains. Used as a humectant as well as an anti-ageing component in skincare.

Hazard Level: Low. This ingredient is very soothing on irritated skin, and can aid in strengthening the skin's barrier and improving moisture retention. Research shows it can also work to firm and plump fine lines,

What is it: Often used in sheet mask material, biocellulose is a super thin, natural fiber that's biodegradable and capable of retaining moisture.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it? Vitamin B7. Found in various foods, it's commonly used in haircare products. It's said to reduce hair breakage and improve elasticity. Biotin is a more recent addition to skincare, as studies have suggested it may aid the production of beneficial fatty acids to protect and hydrate the skin.

Hazard Level: Medium. Not enough research has been done on this ingredient in skincare. While some studies show impressive benefits, others suggest it may be a potential irritant.

What is it: AKA levomenol, this is a chamomile extract. It is sometimes used as a fragrance. Some studies suggest including it in skincare can help other useful ingredients penetrate deeper into the skin, and carries similar properties to an antioxidant.

Hazard Level: Medium. Because it's an essential oil, it may be irritating to those who are allergy-prone or have very sensitive skin.

What is it: A pineapple extract which functions as an enzyme, with anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing properties.

Hazard Level: Low

What is it: A form of alcohol that draws water from the air, making it a useful conditioning agent in skincare. It can also function as a solvent, to thin excessively thick formulas.

Hazard Level: Low. While there has been wariness around this ingredient in the past, clinical trials and testing has determined it safe for use in cosmetics.

What is it: Cannabidiol or CBD. is one of the compounds found in cannabis. Unlike the other compound THC (or tetrahydrocannabinol), CBD
is non-psychoactive (meaning it won't get you high). CBD has many properties that make it an attractive skincare ingredient. It's an anti-inflammatory, analgesic and a humectant. Studies suggest it may even be effective in treating eczema and psoriasis.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A plant used in beauty treatments for hundreds of years in parts of Africa and Southern America. Prickly Pear oil is a powerful humectant, and is also rich in vitamins A, D, E, and K, polyphenols, amino acids and fatty acids.

Hazard Level: Low. This is an excellent skincare ingredient, and carries both anti-ageing and anti-bacterial qualities.

What is it: This compound is produced in the leaves and seeds of various plants, and is obviously delicious in a latte! In topical skincare, this ingredient is capable of constricting blood vessels, possibly leading to reduced redness and a more 'awake' look when used in eye and face creams.

Hazard Level: Medium. There's a risk that caffeine products aimed at reducing redness could cause a temporary increase called rebound redness. Why? Blood vessels that are regularly constricted can go into hyperdrive without their usual dose of caffeine. It's a bit like a withdrawal symptom.

What is it: A centuries-old ingredient that's a mix of zinc oxide and ferric oxide. an astringent, it is usually a pink liquid and is successful at treating minor skin irritations, allergies and rashes.

Hazard Level: Medium. It has its uses, but shouldn't be used frequently as it could sensitize the skin.

What is it: A rather lovely flowering plant that has been used for centuries for its skin calming abilities.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Also known as Japanese beautyberry, this plant is part of the mint family. It is chock-full of phytochemicals that possess antioxidant activity, such as flavonoids, phytosterols, sesquiterpenes, and triterpenes. It can also gently brighten the skin, and is a useful anti-ageing ingredient.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: An amino acid derived from coconut oil. It's used as a natural preservative in skincare, and can replace parabens.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Also called L-carnitine, this is is an amino acid naturally present in the body that helps convert fat into energy. There isn't much research into its effectiveness in skincare, but some studies suggest it can be an anti-inflammatory and temporarily reduce puffiness.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Carica papaya is the scientific name for the papaya plant. Papaya extracts are naturally rich in vitamin C, carotenoids and polyphenols, as well as powerful enzymes. In skincare, it functions to gently brighten, exfoliate and stimulate collagen synthesis.

Hazard level: Low.

What is it: A type of peptide. Often an anti-ageing ingredient in skincare, it can protect against free-radical damage and collagen breakdown.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A milk derivative.

Hazard Level: Medium. While it's rich in amino acids, it can act as an acne-trigger for some. Avoid if you're lactose intolerant.

What is it: A popular K-Beauty ingredient, this plant is rich in amino acids, beta carotene, fatty acids, and numerous potent phytochemicals. In skincare, it has the ability to calm inflammation, speed wound healing, stimulate new cell growth, build collagen, and improve circulation.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Naturally occurring fat molecules found in sebum that hold together your skin cells like glue, reinforcing its protective barrier.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A derivative of a derivative of cetearyl alcohol that's used as a surfactant or an emulsifier in skincare products.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A fatty alcohol that is used as a stabilizer in skincare. It also helps to create a silky texture.

Hazard Level: Low. Unlike rubbing alcohol and ethanol, this isn't drying or sensitizing, and is safe for use in skincare products.

What is it: A popular flower extract with natural anti-bacterial, calming and antiseptic properties.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: It might not be great in your diet, but this fat molecule is naturally occurring in your skin barrier, helping to protect, retain moisture and keep your skin looking plump and bouncing.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A natural AHA found in many fruits. It also carries antioxidant properties. It's generally used in skincare to as a pH adjustor.

Hazard Level: Medium. Like any AHA, it becomes a hazard in high concentrations, with overuse, and potentially on sensitive skin. Research suggests other AHAs are just as effective in their exfoliation ability, and less sensitizing.

What is it: Delicious to eat and great on your skin, Citrullus lanatus (aka watermelon) is packed with carotenoids, lycopene, amino acids and minerals. against UV-induced damage. You'll generally see this ingredient in anti-ageing skincare, because of its ability to reduce inflammation and promote cell renewal.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Citrus Aurantifolia (aka key lime) is usually used in skincare for its fragrance.

Hazard Level: High. While it may offer some antioxidant benefits, it is generally considered to be a sensitizing ingredient, and can make skin more vulnerable to UV damage.

What is it: Also known as Citrus Sinesis, it's just good old orange extract. As you'd imagine, it's high in vitamin C, flavonoids and carotenoids.

Hazard Level: Medium. It really depends how oranges are used. If harnessed for its antioxidant goodness, it can be beneficial. However, if used as a fragrance, it can be a potential irritant.

What is it: Grapefruit extract (although sometimes note some ingredients lists use the word Citrus Grandis to also refer to pomelo) is rich in vitamin C and lycopene, and is thought to carry antiseptic and skin-conditioning properties.

Hazard Level: Medium. Like other citrus extracts, it is a skin sensitizer and can make your skin more vulnerable to damaging UV rays. The key is to see where it's listed in the ingredients. Small concentrations are likely harmless, but if it's listed near the middle or top of the list, then the product is best avoided.

What is it: Lemons - in skincare, it adds a pleasant aroma.

Hazard Level: High because it contains a high amount of limonene - a volatile fragrance chemical known to cause dermal irritation and sensitization. It's best avoided.

What is it: Mandarin or tangerine extracts possess strong antioxidant activity. In skincare however, it's generally used for its natural fragrance.

Hazard Level: Medium. Because tangerine peel extracts also contain the fragrant chemical limonene, it may be a potential skin sensitizer.

What is it: Coconut contains numerous benefits for the skin and hair. It's a rich source of fatty acids, and also boasts anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory properties.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Basically, it's coffee! A potent antioxidant, studies suggest it may be able to repair visible signs of sun damage.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A protein which gives its skin its firmness and strength. Sadly, it breaks down over time and as we get older, we produce less. production.

Hazard Level: Low. Ingesting or applying collagen topically is yet to be proven highly effective, however there are plenty of great skincare ingredients (such as peptides and retinol) which can delay the breakdown of collagen and inspire new formation.

What is it: An amino acid that promotes new collagen formation, heals wounds and even protects against hyperpigmentation. You'll usually see this ingredient in anti-ageing formulas.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: When incorporated into skincare, this plant has shown an impressive ability to preserve collagen, protect from environmental aggressors, soothe the skin and aid hyperpigmentation.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A type of silicone that is used as a texture enhancer (gives products a silky feel) or even as an emollient/skin conditioning agent.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A natural carbohydrate derived from sugar. It reacts with the amino acids found on your skin's top layer to darken the skin. That's why it's the active ingredient in most self-tanners.

Hazard Level: Medium. It's considered safe for application and has been approved for topical use by the FDA. However, it's not recommended to ingest or apply to areas like the mouth, nose and around the eyes because the risks of doing so are unknown.

What is it: In a nut shell, skin damage and ageing occurs when our DNA is damaged. This can occur with UV exposure, pollution, and other factors. DNA repair enzymes meanwhile, are just that: they can undo past damage, replacing compromised DNA with healthy DNA. DNA repair enzymes are naturally present in our body, but deplete as we age.

Hazard Level: Low. In skincare, these exciting ingredients can be derived from sea plankton and algae. Unlike retinol, they are not considered to be an irritant.

What is it: A mild, coconut-derived cleansing agent.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A type of silicone that creates a silky feeling in products and also functions as an occlusive, helping to seal in moisture.

Hazard Level: Low. There are a lot of varying opinions on this ingredient. Some say it can clog pores by not allowing your skin to breathe, although there is little scientific evidence to back these claims. Nor is it considered harmful to the environment. However, you may not be comfortable with this ingredient and that's totally ok. Your skin, your way!

What is it: A derivative of the B vitamin choline. It's a naturally occurring substance in our bodies. In skincare, some studies suggest that it protects skin-cell membranes from free-radical damage, while firming and soothing at the same time. However, these studies are not conclusive.

Hazard Level: Medium. Research suggests Dmae needs a pH of about 10 to be effective, which is extremely alkaline and no where near the average of most skincare products.

What is it: An anti-inflammatory polyphenol and the main active component of green tea.

Hazard Level: Low. It's a great ingredient, with the research suggesting that EGCG can reverse existing sun damage and fight free radicals.

What is it: A type of polyphenol that naturally occurs in pomegranates, raspberries, cranberries and other types of fruit and nut. It's said to possess antioxidant and even anti-cancer properties.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Any moisturizing ingredient that increases water levels in the skin. Common ones you'll see are glycerin, propylene glycol, shea butter etc.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: What you input into a skincare formula (like cetyl alcohol, stearic acid, glyceryl stearate etc) to bind ingredients together.

Hazard Level: Low to Medium, depending on your own skin and the amount used in a product. Most skincare products use low amounts which make little difference even for sensitive skin. However, hypersensitive skin or those with conditions such as eczema and rosacea might require very little to no emulsifiers in formulas.

What is it: A sugar derived from berries that slowly and subtly darkens the skin (who would have thought). It’s typically found in self-tanning formulas.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A common ingredient in Chinese and Korean traditional medicine, this tree-fruit is purported to boost micro-circulation and calm inflammation.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A plant-derived antioxidant that also helps to stabilize vitamins C and E in skin-care products.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A plant extract that has skin-soothing qualities.

Hazard Level: Low-Medium. There's a compound within Feverfew called parthenolide that is potentially sensitizing. However, if removed, it's considered beneficial.

What is it: A connective tissue cell found throughout the body, including the skin. This cell produces the collagen and elastin responsible for keeping skin firm and bouncy. Retinoids can ramp up collagen production in fibroblasts.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A type of antioxidant present in plants (especially deeply pigmented ones) that can offer antiallergic, anti-carcinogenic and anti-inflammatory properties.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Did you know plants have hormones? Typically found in soybeans, Genistein is a phytoestrogen, or plant hormone. Studies show it can soothe, offer antioxidant properties and brighten the skin.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A licorice root extract that can give traditional skin brighteners like vitamin C a run for their money. It also carries skin-soothing and antioxidant properties.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A naturally occurring compound in the body. In skincare, glucosamine is said to reduce hyperpigmentation, stimulate hyaluronic acid production and accelerate wound healing.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Also known as the “mother of antioxidants”, this tri-peptide is composed of 3 amino acids: glutamic acid, cysteine and glycine. It's said to firm the skin, counter hyperpigmentation, and protect from environmental damage.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A top class humectant that you'll commonly see in hydrating products.

Hazard Level: Low. This is a great ingredient for dry skin.

What is it: An emulsifier and solvent. It can also enhance a product's texture.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugarcane.

Hazard Level: Medium. This is a highly effective exfoliant and is great on your skin - however, the hazards come with overuse, the % concentration and use on sensitive skin. It's advised that both darker skin tones and sensitive skin/damaged skin barriers should use a low concentration of glycolic acid infrequently for the best and safest results.

What is it: This fruit extract is packed with antioxidants and polysaccharides. Aside from protecting your skin from environmental aggressors, it's also said to reduce hyperpigmentation.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Chock-full of potent antioxidants, polyphenols and flavonoids, grape seed extract will soothe and protect your skin from free radical damage.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Delicious in a cuppa and great for your skin, green tea extracts can protect your skin from environmental damage, soothe redness and inflammation, and is even beneficial for acne.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: The active compound in licorice root, which is responsible for its sweet taste. It's an anti-inflammatory, and can calm red skin and acne.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Pressed from the seeds of hemp plants, this emollient is packed with vitamins, minerals, and essential fatty acids. It's also shown to regulate sebum production, making it a great ingredient for congestion-prone oily and combination skin.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A great emollient with ceramides, linolenic acid and skin soothing abilities. It can be beneficial for skin conditions such as dermatitis and eczema.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A naturally-occurring sugar molecule found in our skin, which can hold 1000x its weight in moisture. For this reason, it's a great ingredient for dry and ageing skin. Just make sure to apply it on damp (rather than bone dry) skin.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A form of lecithin, it is generally used as an emollient or for its skin-restoring abilities in skincare.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Small peptides obtained through the hydrolysis of collagen. These can penetrate the skin and tend to have great moisturizing properties (rather than the ability to stimulate collagen growth, for which a retinol or vitamin C serum should be used instead).

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: An effective skin-lightening agent.

Hazard Level: High. Although it is FDA approved, it is banned in Australia. There are risks around heavy use of this ingredient, as it is thought to be carcinogenic, an irritant, and worsen skin disorders.

What is it: A form of Vitamin A that's thought to be less irritating and more stable than traditional retinol. A wrinkle-fighting form of vitamin A shown to be less irritating and more stable than traditional retinol.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A synthetic antioxidant that reduces inflammation and UV damage.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Also known as French Green Clay, it doesn't have the same level of oil-soaking ability as other clays, but is soothing to the skin and sometimes used as a thickener.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A type of synthetic preservative.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A type of preservative that belongs to the Parabens group.

Hazard Level: Medium. Parabens have been heavily vilified in recent years. While some of the research points to concerning outcomes, some are inconclusive while others conclude it is not harmless in the amounts typically used in skincare products. In any case, there are plenty of alternative preservatives available for those wanting to err on the side of caution and avoid parabens altogether.

What is it: A naturally occurring amino acid. It's usually used in anti-ageing formulations.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A synthetic ingredient that functions as an emollient and texture enhancer.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: An eco-friendly, water-soluble ingredient that can function as an emollient or preservative.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: The ester of isopropyl alcohol and isostearic acid, whch acts as a binding agent as well as a lubricant.

Hazard Level: Low. Thankfully, it doesn't have the same skin sensitizing properties as related ingredient isopropyl alcohol.

What is it: Used as both a texture enhancer and an emollient in skincare formulas.

Hazard Level: Low-Medium. Some (admittedly dated) research suggests this could be a pore-clogging ingredient, but there is no conclusive evidence to suggest that. In any case, if you have very congested skin, you may wish to avoid it.

What is it: An emollient and texture enhancer that can be synthetic or animal-derived.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Rubbing alcohol.

Hazard Level: High. It might kill germs but it's not an ideal ingredient for your skin, being highly irritating and sensitizing.

What is it: A type of fatty acid used as a binding agent or texture enhancer in skincare formulas.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A floral plant extract with a lovely fragrance, usually added to skincare for its scent.

Hazard Level: Medium. It contains the volatile fragrance chemical linalool, which is a potential skin sensitizer.

What is it: Derived from the seeds of the jojoba shrub. Rich in fatty acids, it boasts a similar texture to our own sebum.

Hazard Level: Low. This is an excellent ingredient for dry skin but we'd avoid using large amounts on congestion-prone skin.

What is it: A plant extract that's usually added to skincare formulations for its fragrance, although it is purported to have skin-soothing abilities.

Hazard Level: Medium. As with many other essential oils primarily utilized for their fragrance, it may exacerbate existing skin sensitivities.

What is it: A claylike mineral that soaks up oil and controls shine. Great in a mask.

Hazard Level: Low. This is a safe and effective ingredient, but unsuitable for skin that's already dry.

What is it: A plant organism used in skincare formulations for their texture enhancing, binding and purported anti-ageing qualities.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A hydrating plant hormone that encourages cell division and repair. Often found in anti-ageing skincare.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A fruit packed with vitamin C, antioxidants and polyphenols. It's a great ingredient to protect the skin against environmental aggressors.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A moisturizing kernel oil rich in fatty acids. It's great as a hair conditioning treatment, and to soothe dry, inflamed sin.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A popular by-product of sake, it's used for brightening an uneven skin tone and treating hyperpigmentation.

Hazard Level: Medium. While it's highly effective, it can be unstable and irritating in high concentrations. Kojic dipalmitate is more stable but it's unknown whether it's just as effective at brightening.

What is it: Good old Vitamin C!

Hazard Level: Medium. It's a great skincare ingredient without a doubt - but it is highly unstable and is susceptible to both light and oxygen degradation. Once oxidized, it becomes ineffective. It also needs to be at a low pH in order for it to do its thing on your skin. To ensure your vitamin C serum remains stable for longer, store it in a cool, dark place (or better yet, in a fridge).

What is it: A type of AHA that can be synthetic or derived from fermented milk. It exfoliates dead skin cells for a brighter appearance, and is also considered gentle enough for sensitive skin and rosacea-prone folks.

Hazard Level: Low. As with all acids and active ingredients in general, it's Your Skin, Your Way. Patch test first, don't overdo it, and pay attention to your skin's tolerance.

What is it: A probiotic ingredient that can protect, repair and soothe the skin. Some research suggests this is a DNA repair enzyme.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A type of PHA derived from milk.

Hazard Level: Low. Because it has larger molecules than its peer AHA, it makes it an ideal exfoliating ingredient for sensitive or irritation-prone skin. It doesn't need to be used at a low-PH either (unlike AHAs), and can also offer antioxidant properties.

What is it: The salt form of lactobionic acid. Can be used as a preservative in skincare.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A naturally-occurring enzyme in milk that is said to have anti-microbial and antioxidant properties.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A type of sea algae rich in polysaccharides. It offers soothing, antioxidant and hydrating properties.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A fatty alcohol that's an organic by-product of coconut or palm oil. It's used as a cleansing agent in skincare.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A floral, fragrant plant extract generally used to perfume skincare.

Hazard Level: Medium. It's a potential skin sensitizer.

What is it: An emollient and binding agent.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A plant extract that has anti-microbial and antibacterial properties.

Hazard Level: Medium. It is a potential skin sensitizer.

What is it: A plant that is rich in vitamins B5 and B6. In skincare, it is used for its antioxidant and skin-softening properties. It is also said to help control excess sebum production.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A molecule found in licorice-root extract that can soothe inflammation and help control sebum production.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A stable plant oil that is rich in fatty acids. It acts as an emollient and skin-soothing agent.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A volatile fragrance component of many citrus oils.

Hazard Level: Medium. While it carries soothing and antioxidant benefits, it is also a skin sensitizer.

What is it: A volatile fragrance compound of certain plants.

Hazard Level: Medium, as it is a potential skin sensitizer.

What is it: A type of omega-6 fatty acid that is a great skin-soother and emollient.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A plant oil that's a great source of omega fatty acids. In skincare, it soothes, hydrates and prevents moisture loss.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A antioxidant which gives watermelons and tomatoes their red pigment which protects the skin from sun damage.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A deliciously nutty oil that's also used in skincare as an emollient.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A compound of Centella Asiatica (aka cica). Madecassoside is responsible for correcting texture, stimulating microcirculation (to help with redness) and protecting your skin from free radical damage.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A naturally occurring mineral in the earth, it's used in skincare as an emulsifier or thickener. Not to be confused with silicone.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A gentle cleansing agent.

Hazard Level: Low. It's considered safe for use on sensitive skin.

What is it: A gentle cleansing agent.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A thickening agent.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Cherry extract, sometimes used in skincare due to it being rich in vitamin C, other antioxidants and polysaccharides.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A type of AHA that's made of larger molecules than peer glycolic acid, making it a safer acid option for sensitive skin.

Hazard Level: Low. Even though mandelic acid will not penetrate as deeply as other acids with smaller molecules, be careful not to over use or overdo the % concentration, particularly if you have sensitive skin.

What is it: Mango butter is used as an emollient in skincare, being rich in fatty acids and skin-soothing compounds.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: This medicinal honey from New Zealand is believed to contain more skin-healing compounds than other honeys. It also boasts anti-microbial and anti-bacterial properties.

Hazard Level: Low. It's worth noting however, that more manuka honey is sold than is produced! This means that there are a lot of fakes in the market. Look for New Zealand government certified honey that is mono-floral (rather than multi-floral). It's worth asking skincare companies who claim to use manuka honey where they obtain their extracts, and how they can verify what they are using is the real deal.

What is it: Extracted from the kernels of the African marula tree, this fast-absorbing oil boasts natural essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and flavonoids. It's used as a facial oil on its own or as a humectant.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A plant extract that's probably better in your toothpaste than in your skincare. It is generally used to create a 'fresh' fragrance.

Hazard Level: Medium.

What is it: It an be naturally derived (from mint plants) or synthetically made (which is what you'll commonly find today), and is used as a cooling agent in cosmetics. You might see it in shower gels, shaving products and lip balms.

Hazard Level: High. Menthol may serve some functions due to its cooling nature, providing relief from allergies and heat rashes etc. However, it is very sensitizing on the skin and not recommended for use.

What is it: A synthetic derivative of menthol most often used in lip-plumping products.

Hazard Level: High. Is a potentially sensitizing ingredient.

What is it: This synthetic sunscreen active provides partial UVA protection.

Hazard Level: Medium. Ensure this ingredient is blended with other sunscreen actives to provide complete coverage from UVA and UVB rays. On its own, it's only partially effective. Note the FDA has recently called for further testing on this ingredient.

What is it: A type of silicone used to give products a silky texture. Can also be used to seal in moisture.

Hazard Level: Low. Considered non-irritating and reef-safe.

What is it: A hydrating, synthetic solvent which may also encourage absorption of certain ingredients, such as salicylic acid.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Generally made from food-grade milk powder, it's a hydrating ingredient that contains amino acids.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A plant root with antioxidant properties.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A purified oil derived from petroleum. that is widely used in cosmetics. It's used in skincare as an emollient.

Hazard Level: Low. It's gotten a bit of a bad rep in recent years within the clean skincare movement, but isn't actually sensitizing or harmful (although it's extracted from petroleum, it's NOT like pouring actual petrol on your face).

What is it: A stable plant oil packed with vitamins, antioxidants, amino acids and fatty acids. Used as an emollient and skin-soothing ingredient.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Commonly used herb in Asian skincare to soothe, heal and reduce inflammation. You'll often see it in nourishing or skin-barrier rebuilding products.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: The good old banana. This true superfruit is rich in vitamin B6 and other antioxidants. In skincare, it may function as a hydrating ingredient, as well as an astringent.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A plant extract that has been used in Indian medicine for thousands of years for its antiseptic and antioxidant properties. In skincare, extracts may be used for its antioxidant or anti-microbial properties.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: While it's safe as an extract in skincare, in oil form it contains a sensitizing chemical called nimbidin that is a potential irritant and skin sensitizer.

Hazard Level: Medium.

What is it: A floral plant extract usually used in skincare for its fragrance.

Hazard Level: Medium. A potential skin sensitizer.

What is it: Vitamin B3, aka one of our favourite restoring ingredients. It can diminish skin sensitivity, improve elasticity, reduce the appearance of pores, brighten, reduce redness - the list goes on.

Hazard Level: Low. Do not combine with acids or Vitamin C, and if you have very sensitive skin, try starting with a low concentrating or mixing it in with a cream.

What is it: A gentle cleansing agent.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A type of microplastic used as a bulking or mattifying agent in cosmetics.

Hazard Level: Medium. Safe for the skin, but not particularly great for the environment as it may contribute to marine pollution.

What is it: An antioxidant-rich plan extract.

Hazard Level: Low.

An active sunscreen ingredient that primarily shields the skin from UVB rays.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: An active sunscreen ingredient that offers some protection against UVB rays, and can also help to stabilize UVA filters.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A sunscreen active that's currently undergoing testing by the FDA.

Hazard Level: Low. The belief is that the FDA's additional testing will re-affirm its safety: however, you can always err on the side of caution and avoid this ingredient until the results are out.

What is it: An emollient derived from palm oil.

Hazard Level: Medium. Safe for use on the skin, but not so great for the environment. However, it can be produced sustainably - so check with the brand whether its palm oil and palm oil derivatives are obtained from sustainable sources.

What is it: A sunscreen active that primarily protects against UVB rays.

Hazard Level: Low. Note it is currently undergoing further testing from the FDA, which is largely expected to reaffirm its safety.

What is it: A texture enhancer and an emollient.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A long-chain, synthetic fatty acid often used as texture enhancer in moisturizing products because of its emollient properties. It can also prevent oil and liquid from separating in formulas, and acts as a solvent for perfumes.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Great on a salad and great on your skin! Olive oil is a popular emollient, and is rich in essential fatty acids (some of which comes in the form of squalene).

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A potent skin-soothing ingredient that is usually synthetic but can also be naturally derived from some plants (and marine life).

Hazard Level: Low.

Oleth-10

What is it: A type of fatty alcohol that is used as a texture enhancer and cleansing agent in cosmetics.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: This nut oil has long been used as an effective skin softener and moisturizer.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Rice bran is a natural skin conditioner, soothing agent and softener. It's also rich in antioxidants, including vitamin E and ferulic acid.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A commonly used sunscreen active that primarily protects from UVB rays (and partially from UVA).

Hazard Level: Low. It's currently approved for use in SPF products in specific concentrations across the world. It is also considered reef safe. Note this ingredient is currently undergoing further testing at the FDA, which is largely expected to reaffirm its safety.

What is it: Fatty acids derived from palm oil. Commonly used as an emulsifier or surfactant in skincare.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Derived from palm kernels, it's a fantastic emollient for the skin and even boasts antioxidant properties.

Hazard Level: Medium. While it's great on skin, it isn't always eco-friendly. The demand for palm oil is behind mass deforestation and habitat destruction for several species. Always ensure the palm oil in your skincare is obtained from sustainable sources.

What is it: A naturally occurring fatty acid that can also be blended with other ingredients to function as a cleansing agent or emollient (depending on what it's blended with and the final pH).

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Ginseng is a wonderful skincare ingredient that's been used for thousands of years to treat various afflictions. It's rich in antioxidants and is usually found in anti-ageing products for its ability to increase the skin's elasticity.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A form of vitamin B that moisturizes and strengthens both the skin and hair.

Hazard level: Low.

What is it: A type of papaya enzyme that's used as a gentle exfoliant in skincare.

Hazard Level: High. Papaya extracts are better for your skin than pure papain, which studies found to be the cause of skin allergies and can compromise the skin barrier. Avoid high doses and sustained use of papain in topical skincare.

What is it: A group of much-maligned preservatives, which includes methylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben.

Hazard Level: Medium The low concentrations typically used in skincare (less than 1%) considered safe by the FDA. However, if you want to err on the side of caution, you can always use paraben-free skincare.

What is it: A waxy, petroleum-derived substance that functions as an occlusive.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A fragrant, irritating oil that can sensitize the skin to UV rays and cause a reaction.

Hazard Level: High.

What is it: This floral plant is rich in flavonoids and its oil is a useful emollient.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A natural starch commonly found in fruits and vegetables, that acts as a thickener in cosmetic formulations.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A much-maligned cleansing agent. Concerns around PEGs arose from the problematic by-products of its manufacturing process. Many cosmetic producers have since refined their processes, eliminating these by-products. This makes PEGs cleaner and safer in cosmetic formulations.

Hazard Level: Medium. Typically, skincare products use small doses which shouldn't irritate the skin. However, if you have very sensitive skin or a compromised barrier, err on the side of caution and avoid.

What is it: The name given to a group of small protein fragments that promote collagen growth and help repair skin. They can be natural or synthetic. You'll see the individual peptide name in a product's ingredients list. Common peptides include oligopeptides, palmitoyl dipeptide-10, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, palmitoyl tripeptide, carnosine and n-acetylcarnosine...the list goes on.

Hazard Level: Low. These are great for your skin and can slow down the process of ageing.

What is it: Who doesn't love an avo toast? The oil from these kernels make a great emollient for your skin.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A purified by-product of petroleum that's both an emollient and occlusive.

Hazard Level: Low. Great for dry skin but can clog already oily pores.

What is it: A commonly used synthetic preservative that's both safe and effective.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A type of alcohol used as a solvent or preservative.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A type of silicone that functions as a texture enhancer, occlusive and skin conditioner.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A type of synthetic antioxidant that is said to improve uneven skin tone.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A flavonoid found in apples that can enhance the penetration of other skincare ingredients.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A pH adjuster.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A plasticizer which has become controversial due to its possible link to disrupt the human endocrine system.

Hazard Level: High. Studies around this ingredient and its potential effects are ongoing.

What is it: A group of chemical exfoliants (e.g. gluconolactone and lactobionic acid) that are a gentler option to AHAs.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Beehive resin, which has been used for centuries to heal wounds and treat inflammation. With solid anti-bacterial and anti-microbial properties, it's a soothing ingredient that can also be used to calm acne.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A non-fragrant oil made from pressed almonds that's an effective emollient.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A powerful antioxidant found in your glass of red (thanks to grapes), it fights free radicals to protect skin cells from damage, reduces redness and can even help to hydrate skin.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A derivative of vitamin A. Vitamin A has been clinically proven to reduce fine lines, increase skin-cell turnover, increase collagen production and treat acne. That's what makes it such a desirable ingredient! There are many forms of Vitamin A, some stronger than others. For instance, retinyl palmitate and retinaldehyde are considered weaker forms (but also less irritating.

Hazard Level: Medium. The issue with Vitamin A is that it can take some getting used to, particularly if you have sensitive skin. Initially, it can cause flaking, dry skin, redness and itchiness. The best way to introduce Vitamin A into your skincare routine is to do it slowly - try using a low concentration once a week, and if your skin allows it, increasing it to twice a week and then three times. Avoid using it with acids as it can increase skin sensitivity.

What is it: A lovely, emollient plant oil with antioxidant properties and fatty acids.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A reparative, probiotic yeast commonly found in fermented skincare.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: The salt form of skin goodie hyaluronic acid. It's considered to be more effective at penetrating the skin compared to pure hyaluronic acid because of its smaller molecular size.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Not to be confused with Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (we know, they look identical), this is a gentle cleansing agent that can be derived from coconut. It's entirely safe to use. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate on the other hand, is also a cleansing and foaming agent but is much harsher on skin, and can be sensitizing.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A wonderful emollient that is a component of our own natural sebum production. It's naturally present in vegan ingredients such as rice bran, olives and sugarcane. However, both squalene and squalene can also be derived from shark liver - some species of which are over-fished. Hence, check your skincare product derives its squalane from vegan sources.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A fatty alcohol used as both an emollient or emulsifier. It's not the drying or irritating kind of alcohol.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Vitamin E - a great, restorative and protective antioxidant. You'll commonly see it listed in the ingredients list as tocopheryl. There are also various forms of vitamin E - such as d-alpha-tocopherol and tocopherol acetate.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: Derived from the seeds of a tree native to Polynesia, it's often used as an emollient in skincare. It is also said to have anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it one of the better skin oils for those with bacterial acne.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A natural plant ingredient that has been used to tone, treat acne and condition the skin.

Hazard Level: Medium. The problem with witch hazel comes from its processing. Witch Hazel products are usually combined with a high % of alcohol, making it not-so-great for the skin. On top of that, some parts of the plant are better than others - for example its leaves contain several beneficial antioxidants while its bark carries a higher tannin content (a potential sensitizer). You never quite know how Witch Hazel has been processed or which parts of the plant are used when you purchase most skincare products, so its best used in small amounts or avoided altogether.

What is it: A natural thickening agent and formula stabilizer.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: A plant extract commonly used for tea in South America. It is said to be rich in antioxidants.

Hazard Level: Low.

What is it: This mineral can have soothing and antioxidant properties - although there is some thought it could be a trigger for acne.

Hazard Level: Low.